Magnetron coil homelite super xl automatic

#Magnetron coil homelite super xl automatic serial number#
#Magnetron coil homelite super xl automatic install#
#Magnetron coil homelite super xl automatic serial#

I've not found very many of those type Homies with bad crankshaft seals, but if one is bad it's usually on the clutch side.Дo you have a Vac/pressure tester? (or a way of injecting not over 5 lbs of air pressure) Every once in awhile you can get a bite with the open end. If the wrench is too long it won't work either, seems like about 5-6 inches long. I had to take a good grade of box end wrench and open on other end, think it was 1/2 inch size, 12 point, not 6 point because you are just going to get little bitty bites in the close area and go to bench grinder and thin out the box end little at time, don't get the wrench hot enough to turn blue or it will soften, dip it in water to keep it cool, keep making it thinner until you can slip it over the top of the 2 nuts that are hard to get too. Couple of them are hard to get a standard non modded wrench onto. If you keep running it with them loose it will ruin the gasket if it's not already ruined. If two was loose the other two are loose and it will leak. The Walbro site has some real good SERVICE info for those type carbs for viewing or downloading. (if you find the L jet adjustment seems to want to change as the saws engine temps changes from cold to hot and vice versa it most likely has a vacuum leak. What I'm saying is when one has bad idle or run issues they flood easily and do not unflood easily and I've seen the L jet on those be happy for good idle and correct at anywhere to 1/2 turn to 1 1/4 turns and critical. Usually when them type Homies flood you can let it set for about 8-12 hours, then crank it with the decompression set and at fast idle, NO CHOKE and get a start or promise to run. I have some tips to make re-install lots easier, just ask if you have it off and get to sweating the re-install. Them carbs are not user friendly to re-install. Just plug the de-compression hole to slow the leak and test the other stuff)Дў. (and it's common for the compression release pintle hole to leak when doing a pressure vacuum test.

#Magnetron coil homelite super xl automatic install#

The 4 nuts holding the piston jug to the block (and very common to find them loose) which causes a vacuum/pressure leak and if you find them loose at all and tightening don't help the idle/run, pressure test the block and check the gasket for leakage and the crank seals and when you pull the jug to replace the gasket is a good time to install set of new rings if the piston and cylinder look ok. I've seen flooding and hard starting issues when cold on those type saws, especially when they don't idle good due toДЎ. (and HEADS UP, those saws will spit heavy fire out the spark plug hole if a spark plug dangles over the hole and sparks and the block is flooded)) You will probably be surprised at how strong it actually is. 030-040 and ground it good (don't let it just dangle around) dim the lights in the room or turn the light off and crank and look at the spark. To check the spark, take the existing plug out, get another plug and gap it at about. The spark on those saws can fool you especially when looking at it in bright light. New ones sometimes have a slight glaze or your feeler gauge will contaminate the new points. 020 then slowly rotate the crank and drag a dollar bill through the points to clean them before installing the flywheel. Yes: It will idle and cut good at 110, even down to 80 if all else is correct.ДЄND points and condenser is a good thing for old saws and gap the points at. (really a good strong little saw when all is corect Just some info from experience on those type saws. I have heard about the blue Prestolite coils going bad, does this usually cause weak spark or none at all?ДЄre there any resistance/continuity values for the coil so I can see if it is bad? I have not been able to get it restarted. Yesterday, the saw started and ran for a second, then cut off. I already cleaned and set the points, sanded the flywheel magnets and coil, and replaced the spark plug. It has a Wico Prestolite point ignition system with a blue coil. The piston/cylinder are not scored, and it has 110 PSI compression, so I don't think that compression is the problem. The saw is getting flooded and the spark tester light looks kind of dim.

#Magnetron coil homelite super xl automatic serial#

Should the zero be ignored and this be considered a 7-digit serial number?Дid these saws have washers under the bar nuts when they were new? I have seen pictures with and without washers, but which way is factory?

#Magnetron coil homelite super xl automatic serial number#

How would the serial number be decoded? It is 8 digits, but according to the service bulletin, it would have been made in 1980 on day #452. The black fuel cap, raised letter plastic air filter cover, and metal bodied oiler button also seem consistent with that year. I have found the number 5 with a circle around it (like on a date wheel) cast into a few parts of the saw, this leads me to believe it was made around 1975. I got it off Craigslist in non-running condition a couple days ago. This is my new Homelite Super XL Automatic.